There's a lot you might expect from a family vacation in Hawaii -- sandy beaches, swaying palms, steel guitars, a surfer or two. But seclusion? Hawaii's hot beaches can be heavily populated -- unless your family heads for Molokai.
This minuscule island is far from the madding crowds of Maui and only a puddle jump by air from the worldly excitement of Oahu. Settled long ago by leprosy sufferers who were banished to Molokai beaches then promptly nearly forgotten, the island has avoided mass development in the century since.
The leper colony is long gone. But in its wake, Molokai's inland terrain, which is dry and desert-like, has proven more attractive to ranchers and pineapple growers than tourists. These days the island is well kept and well guarded by locals fiercely holding fast to old Hawaiian traditions. Many say this Pacific isle conveys how Maui, Kauai and Oahu were 50 years ago, before they were discovered by resort developers.
FRIENDLY ISLE
Known as "the friendly isle," it is said Molokai (MO-lo-kye-EEE) is home to an "aloha spirit." Indeed, the few locals that you meet on this sparsely populated place are calm and welcoming. They drive slowly, amble through the aisles in the grocery store and take time to enjoy their own scenic views.
While the other isles of Hawaii are friendly, their citizens move at a more mainland pace. Which is exactly why Molokai is ideal for family travel. Besides taking in the sea, the palms and that consistently warm breeze, there's nothing much to do on Molokai except enjoy one another's company.
The island is the fifth largest in the Hawaiian archipelago. It's about 60 km long and approximately 16 km wide, with a seemingly small 40-km expanse between Molokai and Oahu. On our first night there we watched the sun set prettily behind Oahu's Waikiki Beach, which lies due west across the channel.
Much of Molokai's terrain is ranchlike -- similar to Australia's Outback or inland California. It is dry, treeless, hot, brown and sparse -- the antithesis of what you'd expect from a lush Hawaiian island. Cowboys have worked its land for years, especially on Molokai's western half.
This dry land is in stark contrast to the island's edges where, close to the sea, the terrain livens up. There's plenty of green, lots of palms, an ultra-blue sea and steady rolling waves that will lull you to sleep. As you travel east along the single highway that extends across the island, Molokai's terrain becomes more verdant. Molokai's eastern end is significantly more beachy and lush.
Among Molokai's family friendly fun are activities that are, like the island, low key. Kids love horseback riding along Molokai's rugged trials or cycling along its only road, which enjoys little vehicular traffic.
The island is so small, from the road and trail there's always a fabulous view of the sea. Molokai is home to Hawaii's only barrier reef -- ideal for snorkelling. Molokai's sea cliffs are among the highest and most dramatic in the world. Your kids will recall the spectacular views from the movie Jurassic Park III.
Sea kayaking is popular. And while Molokai isn't a Mecca for Hawaiian surfing, its smallish waves are decent enough to learn on. The island is also the birthplace of the hula dance.
Lodging and nightlife on Molokai is different than the hotel fare you find on Maui. There are no large hotel chains and few fancy restaurants.
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